It's Brazil baby!

James and I have spent our last week chilling out in exotic Brazil. We spent the first 2 nights on Ilha Grande. The island was the perfect getaway after the trek. The scenery was a lot like the Whitsundays. Staying at 'Pousada do sol' hotel we were treated to a private beach and free snorkelling and kayaking equipment. We kayaked to a deserted island and walked around its perimeter watching the crabs and fish in the shallows. 

Our final days were spent in Rio de Janeiro City. This is one of my favourite cities I've ever been to. We visited the must sees- Christ the Redeemer statue and Sugar loaf mountain- and the views did not disappoint.  This city has literally been built in a mountain range, surrounded by Jungle and bordering the Atlantic Ocean. It's the perfect mix of exotic wilderness meeting exotic culture and business opportunity. Our hotel was a 2 minute walk from Copacabana beach where we watched Brazilians play beach soccer after dark. Copacabana beach reminds me of Venice beach in the USA- bustling with joggers, skateboarders and markets selling vibrant paintings and trinkets.

Overall this trip has exceeded my expectations. The anxieties of completing the public health study tour in Mexico City became triumphs. The diverse landscapes of Peru and Brazil have amazed and excited me. As always when travelling, I've learnt a lot about myself and new places and cultures. I feel small in this world but my desire for adventure and new challenges is large. I definitely need to come back to South America again someday to discover Chile, eat steak in Argentina, see the salt flats of Bolivia and more. However for now it's homeward bound.

Until the next adventure...

Lauren Allnutt x 

Following in the footsteps of the Inca's

During the past week I have been physically and mentally challenged, forced to put mind over matter on a pilgrimage to the great Machu Picchu mountain in Peru. 

James and I joined 10 other fit and adventurous on a trek along the classic Inca trail. The ancient Inca's built a road of stone through mountainside and valleys from Ecuador, through Peru, and down to Chile some 400 years ago. The trail connected their various settlements for religious, military and trade purposes. On our 4 day journey we covered 42km, climbing 2000metres into dangerous altitudes. The trek was undulating, with the hardest day being the second. On day 2 we climbed a mere 1700m to the highest point at 4200m above sea level. The scenery was breathtaking. I felt completely at mercy to nature, so small against the giant cordillera mountain range that form the Peruvian Andes. Snow rushed from the highest peaks in powerful waterfalls and fit porters ran past us in sandals, carrying 20kg packs on their backs. 

Day 3 bought a new challenge. As we awoke stiff and tired, we were forced to start trekking at 6.30am in chilling rain. We were soaked through, unable to see more than 10m ahead. The stone track became a river. At this point I wondered why I chose this as a holiday activity. However moods swiftly turned when the afternoon sun broke through the clouds, just in time to see the epic view from the Phuyupatamarca Inca ruins.

The 3.30am start on our final day was definitely the 'Gringo killer'. Although well worth the effort to be at Machu Picchu just after sunrise, before the bus loads of fresh faced tourists arrived. The ruined city of Machu Picchu is the most beautiful historical site I have ever seen. Standing literally on the side of a mountain, the city was built and inhabited by the Inca civilisation. Everything about Inca architecture is centred around the natural environment, mimicking the landscape, seasons and elements. Windows and temples are designed to capture sunrise, sunset and winter solstice. The sun was worshipped as a god.

Upon return to our comfortable hotel I felt I had completed a pilgrimage of my own. The closing of a chapter, the ending of an adventure. There is much to learn from ancient civilisations such as the Inca's. Their respect for the environment enabled their settlements to stand the test of time. Hopefully there will be something sacred of our civilisation to be left for future generations. Something to learn from and be in awe of. Perhaps the lesson from the Inca's is to be respectful of your surroundings, incorporate nature rather than resist it. 

Adios Me-hi-co, Hola Peru!

The fun has truly begun! 

After my travel buddy, James, met me in Lima, we spent the day exploring this amazing city. Similar to Mexico City, the Spanish influence is strong in the city square where cathedrals and ornate facades are in abundance. However once we crossed the bridge we were in a very different side of town. The colorful Peruvian slums that cover the mountainside are bustling with kids playing in portable swimming pools in the street, skateboarders and stray dogs. After some glares from big men hanging on street corners we decided to return across the bridge. 

On Tuesday 23rd we flew from Lima city into the depths of the Amazon. It was like entering Disney's 'The Jungle Book'. From the air we saw the river weaving like a snake through the dense, green Amazon jungle. We landed in Puerto Maldonado and transferred by motorized canoe to Amazonia Ecolodge. The Ecolodge was a jungle paradise. Resident animals including 'Migul' the Howler monkey, and a colorful Mekaw bird welcomed us. Amongst a tropical garden of papaya trees and birds of paradise, the lodge consisted of 70 private bungalows and large communal dining area. On our first day we were taken to monkey island, home to 60 monkeys of 3 different breeds. We only saw spider monkeys. But saw them we did. Somehow I ended up with one inquisitive monkey climbing onto my head and reaching for my plastic drink bottle. He unscrewed the cap, finished off my water and threw the empty bottle onto the ground. Between him, and 'Migul' cuddling into my neck, I became some sort of monkey magnet.

On our second day in the jungle a local guide took us on a private walking tour to a bird watching observation deck. We spotted turantula, giant butterflies, tapir tracks, birds, and a speedy whip snake along the trek. That night we floated with the fast current down river, observing the stars, owls and bats. On our final night we fell  asleep listening to the insect symphony and spooky echoes of the territorial Howler monkeys. 

For a change of scenery, we took a bus to Nazca on Friday. For 7 hours we saw nothing but desert and shanti shacks erected by villagers trying to make a claim on the government land. The next morning we took a flight over the ancient Nazca lines. The lines are thought to be signs to the Gods created by the Nazca people 1000years ago. The lines consist of a series of rocks stuck into the earth, taking the form of various animal and triangular symbols. From the air, the expanse of the desert, and contrast with the green valleys was astonishing.

We concluded the day on a high. A sand dune buggy drove us over and down steep sand dunes. We stopped to sand board and see the dry oasis. 

Jungle one day, desert the next, I've never experienced such intensely diverse landscapes. Now to trek the ancient path of the Incas! 

Cenotes and sun

I finally found the hidden treasures in Mexico I have been looking for.

Our week spent in Playa del Carmen, state of Yucatan, was one of discovery and adventure. We swam in cenotes, spotted sea turtles whilst snorkeling, and sunbaked on the pure white sands of the Caribbean coast.

We stayed at 'The Yak' hostel in Playa del Carmen, chilling in hammocks under palms and blossoms, in our free time. Our first tour was to one of the 7 wonders of the world- Chichen Itza pyramid. The ancient pyramid, built in honor of the moon, was once the centre of a Mayan city.  The Mayans were one of the first civilizations on earth, developing the first known writing system in the pre-Columbian Americas.

After visiting Chichen Itza we swam in our first cenote, Ik Kil.

This cenote was massive, a giant hole in the earth opening into a fresh water pool. The water flows from the underwater river system found in the Yucatan underworld.

On our second day charming Alajandro recruited us from the hostel for a free diving tour in the cenotes. A small group of 6 travelled in his van, listening to Bob Marley, through the jungle and into a quiet paradise. We swam in fresh water ponds nestled amongst palms, and dove through tunnels into caves opening into new cenotes. It was my favorite day in Mexico thus far. At the conclusion of the tour we were taken to an Ancient Mayan temple inside a cave. Alajandro lit candles and we sat in silence, absorbing the atmosphere and our experience.

On the third day we took the bus to Akumal to swim with giant sea turtles. The turtles casually ate the seaweed growing from the sand like water cows. They munched away as we watched above, occasionally swimming slowly to the surface for air. We spent this afternoon sunbaking on Tulum beach. The Caribbean waters in Tulum were turquoise against the pure white sand. Coconuts washed into shore.

We hit the nightlife on our last night in Playa del Carmen, meeting with another 3 students from the study tour. A perfect way to celebrate the end of my time with new found friends and beginning of my next adventure into South America with James. Bring on the Amazon, Inca trek and Rio! 

 

Photo by Ellie Metcalfe 

Intensive tour complete

So that's that, 1 month later, 26 awesome new friends and a unique culture discovered. The AimOverseas study tour of the Mexican public health system concluded on Friday February 13, as roses and balloons began to fill the streets for Valentines day. 

In our final week site visits included; a children's hospital and community healthcare centre. The private children's hospital was confronting. In contrast to seeing the 3 births 2 weeks ago, the 4 floors of sick children and babies was upsetting. One 2 year old girl had a scar running the vertical line of her entire torso due to heart surgery. Other babies were in quarantine suffering from an infectious skin disease, whilst 2 young boys waited for kidney surgery.

On Thursday we visited a community healthcare centre. The centre provided family planning, nutrition, breast feeding and general health advice to the local population, with each social worker attending to approximately 500 families. The services are free to those without private health cover. the daycare centre was a happy room, adorned with bright cartoon characters and artworks. The main issues in the community are nutrition, violence and drug or alcohol abuse. 

The final 2 days of the study tour involved presenting our group reports on a topic of interest, focussing on the Mexican public health system. Our group of 3 presented a research report on nutritional issues in Mexico, and we discovered there are many. Mexico is currently number 1 for rates of obesity and diabetes. 78% of the population now live in the city, transitioning from manual labour and traditional diets to sedentary jobs and fast food. The power of corporations including Coca-Cola and Dominos pizza also dramatically impacts the politics and culture of Mexico. Mexicans are the biggest consumers of soft drink, at approximately 1 liter per person, per day consumed. The president of Coca-Cola for Latin America became the President of Mexico in 2000 and saw that Coke took over Pepsi as the highest selling soda.  

After sad farewells to our Mexican host families and newly made Australian friends, I have arrived in exotic Cancun with 2 other girls from the study tour, ready for a much needed week of relaxing and recuperating, before the next chapter begins into South America!! 

 

Venice in Mexico

Photo by Ellie Metcalfe 

Yesterday I cruised down a river on a brightly painted wooden boat, listening to a Mariachi band play. We spent the day at Xochimilco floating markets and gardens. After browsing the craft markets which sold ponchos, leather bags and brightly painted skull ornaments, we boarded our leaky boat. Sipping coronas and singing, the 50 AimOverseas Australian students sailed down the river passing romantic couples, party boats and other gringo tourists. Professor Arnaldo even danced with the 2 tall blondes of the group at the front of the boat.

Before the river cruise we toured the house  of Dolores Olmeldo- extremely successful business woman and great friend of famous artist Diego Riveria. Dolores made her fortune selling bricks created from volcanic matter. Her mansion was beautiful. Fully furnished with Chinese antiques and ivory, complete with dome ceilings. The garden was equally enchanting, peacocks and ugly hairless Mexican dogs roamed the lawns. Creepers grew over the arched verandahs. 

On Wednesday night we watched the Ballet Folklorico in the beautiful national palace of downtown Mexico City. The ballerinas made intricate patterns with their beautiful dresses whilst tap dancing to the mariachi band tune. The lassoing Mexican cowboy was particularly impressive, circling him and his senorita inside his giant loop. 

I concluded the week with a walk around Maximilian’s castle. Maximilian became Emperor of Mexico in 1864 after the French invasion. His castle consisted of rooms all facing outwards with french opening doors onto wide verandah's overlooking the city. The epicenter of the castle held a watch tower in a beautiful garden. Now we are winding down to our final week of the study tour. I’m looking forward to relaxing on the beach in Cancun next week!

Pyramids to Public Hospitals

We have reached the halfway point of the Public Health in Mexico AimOverseas study tour and I have experienced more in the past 2 weeks than I have in the past 2 years of University. We heard from lecturers on topics including prostitution, same sex relationships, global health issues and disability. The content was both insightful and controversial. 

A highlight of my week included a trip to artist Frida Carlos house in trendy town Coyoacan. The brightly painted blue and red home was set around a beautiful courtyard and decorated with hundreds of colourful artworks. Frida, whom was bed ridden for most of her life had a mirror fixed to the roof of her four poster bed so she could continue to paint self portraits, her death mask continues to lay on the bed to this day. Coyoacan boasted a hippy market place with Bob-Marley like Mexicans selling leather bracelets and tattooing. 

On Thursday, the bus pulled in at a rural public hospital 2 hours out of the city. A long line of village people carrying bags and babies queued outside the door. My fear of hospitals and all things medical was soon confronted as I found myself in scrubs entering an operating theatre. We were lucky enough to witness 2 natural births and 1 C section operation. Surprisingly I found the experience extremely rewarding. The mothers were so brave and actually made it look easy,if anything! The hospital was clean and orderly, even equipped with a robot connecting wirelessly with a surgeon from another hospital, to assist in operations via video and voice assistance. 

We spent the weekend in the state of Puebla, a charming town 2.5hours out of Mexico city, on the way  to which you can see the world's largest pyramid and explore the tunnels under the church atop it. The City of Puebla was charming and quaint with cobbled stone streets, bright yellow and pink buildings, beautiful cathedrals and cheap handicraft markets. Unfortunately I spent most of my time in the hotel room due to a horrible case of food poisoning, but the night life also sounded like fun!

The vast expanse of the 23million Mexican City residents can only be appreciated when you pass the miles of grey slums covering the mountains on the journey back into the city centre. I was shocked at the millions of people living literally on top of each other. Mexico is one of the most diverse places I have visited, as I swing from hospital, to salsa lesson to lecture, I am constantly surprised at the diversity in culture, land and custom.